Carzzzer
13th August 2008, 11:41 PM
Tools needed:
- Torx E10 spanner
- 13 mm socket
Here is a good drawing of the Z16LET engine:
http://carzzzer.dk/merivaopc/usedelsewhere/Opel_z16let_explained.jpg
(original 1920x1600 pixel version can be found here: http://carzzzer.dk/merivaopc/usedelsewhere/Opel_z16let.jpg)
1) Disconnect the lamda sensor. Make sure the cable is completely free and won't get caught on anything as you pull the pre-cat downwards later on.
http://carzzzer.dk/merivaopc/usedelsewhere/lambda_plug.jpg
2) While everything is securely in place, loosen the 3 bolts on the lower flange, as they can be really tough to loosen due to rust. Don't remove the bolts just yet, as they hold the pre-cat and prevent it from dropping on your head later on :lol:
http://carzzzer.dk/merivaopc/usedelsewhere/lower_flange.jpg
3) Loosen and remove the V-band using a torx E10 spanner, so that the whole pre-cat assembly drops down.
This step takes quite some time, as space, hence spanner movement, is very limited. There is no room for using a regular ratched and socket... :confused:
http://carzzzer.dk/merivaopc/usedelsewhere/upper_flange.jpg
4) Now remove the 3 bolts and the gasket on the lower flange completely.
5) The pre-cat (and the upper gasket) should now be possible to wiggle free of the engine. Here it is:
http://carzzzer.dk/merivaopc/usedelsewhere/pre_cat_removed.jpg
6) Carefully loosen and remove the lambda sensor. It's really tight due to all the heat/cool expansion. You need to place the pre-cat in a vice to loosen the sensor.
7) Now it's time to find the down pipe :grin:.
Here are some pics of the Magnex one I bought from EDS Motorsport:
http://carzzzer.dk/merivaopc/usedelsewhere/downpipe_1.jpg
http://carzzzer.dk/merivaopc/usedelsewhere/downpipe_2.jpg
http://carzzzer.dk/merivaopc/usedelsewhere/downpipe_3.jpg
http://carzzzer.dk/merivaopc/usedelsewhere/downpipe_4.jpg
9) Mount the lambda sensor on the down pipe and tighten it securely
10) Back under the car, now mount the upper flange part loosely, so that the surfaces of the down pipe and the turbo touch. It should still be possible to turn the down pipe in order to get the right angle on the exhaust.
11) Assemble the lower flange part as much as you can without tighten it all up.
12) Now tighten the v-band as much as you can. Notice how the bolt moves during tightening and make sure the far-end doesn't touch anything.
13) Tighten the 3 bolts on the lower flange.
14) Done!
Start the engine and listen for any leaks. I was told I didn't need gaskets, but mine had a tiny leaking sound, which has gotten worse during the weeks I haven been driving with it. I'll check if I can tighten the lower flange better, if not I'll go buy a pair of new gaskets.
Verdict:
- It boosts more eagerly, particularly when putting in the next gear
- It holds peak boost longer before dropping
- A little bit more rough exhaust sound during acceleration... and even some splutter (tiny pops) when releasing the accelerator pedal
- Power-wise, it can be compared to moving from octane 95 to V-Power 99 and then some.
- Torx E10 spanner
- 13 mm socket
Here is a good drawing of the Z16LET engine:
http://carzzzer.dk/merivaopc/usedelsewhere/Opel_z16let_explained.jpg
(original 1920x1600 pixel version can be found here: http://carzzzer.dk/merivaopc/usedelsewhere/Opel_z16let.jpg)
1) Disconnect the lamda sensor. Make sure the cable is completely free and won't get caught on anything as you pull the pre-cat downwards later on.
http://carzzzer.dk/merivaopc/usedelsewhere/lambda_plug.jpg
2) While everything is securely in place, loosen the 3 bolts on the lower flange, as they can be really tough to loosen due to rust. Don't remove the bolts just yet, as they hold the pre-cat and prevent it from dropping on your head later on :lol:
http://carzzzer.dk/merivaopc/usedelsewhere/lower_flange.jpg
3) Loosen and remove the V-band using a torx E10 spanner, so that the whole pre-cat assembly drops down.
This step takes quite some time, as space, hence spanner movement, is very limited. There is no room for using a regular ratched and socket... :confused:
http://carzzzer.dk/merivaopc/usedelsewhere/upper_flange.jpg
4) Now remove the 3 bolts and the gasket on the lower flange completely.
5) The pre-cat (and the upper gasket) should now be possible to wiggle free of the engine. Here it is:
http://carzzzer.dk/merivaopc/usedelsewhere/pre_cat_removed.jpg
6) Carefully loosen and remove the lambda sensor. It's really tight due to all the heat/cool expansion. You need to place the pre-cat in a vice to loosen the sensor.
7) Now it's time to find the down pipe :grin:.
Here are some pics of the Magnex one I bought from EDS Motorsport:
http://carzzzer.dk/merivaopc/usedelsewhere/downpipe_1.jpg
http://carzzzer.dk/merivaopc/usedelsewhere/downpipe_2.jpg
http://carzzzer.dk/merivaopc/usedelsewhere/downpipe_3.jpg
http://carzzzer.dk/merivaopc/usedelsewhere/downpipe_4.jpg
9) Mount the lambda sensor on the down pipe and tighten it securely
10) Back under the car, now mount the upper flange part loosely, so that the surfaces of the down pipe and the turbo touch. It should still be possible to turn the down pipe in order to get the right angle on the exhaust.
11) Assemble the lower flange part as much as you can without tighten it all up.
12) Now tighten the v-band as much as you can. Notice how the bolt moves during tightening and make sure the far-end doesn't touch anything.
13) Tighten the 3 bolts on the lower flange.
14) Done!
Start the engine and listen for any leaks. I was told I didn't need gaskets, but mine had a tiny leaking sound, which has gotten worse during the weeks I haven been driving with it. I'll check if I can tighten the lower flange better, if not I'll go buy a pair of new gaskets.
Verdict:
- It boosts more eagerly, particularly when putting in the next gear
- It holds peak boost longer before dropping
- A little bit more rough exhaust sound during acceleration... and even some splutter (tiny pops) when releasing the accelerator pedal
- Power-wise, it can be compared to moving from octane 95 to V-Power 99 and then some.