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  1. #11
    VXRed
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    20th June 2017
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    you did bleed the radiator didn't you after it isn't air locked is it

    the reason i say is i changed my radiator last week because it had rotten and it runs alot better now and i notice the change but it was a pain to bleed the radiator and while the air was in there when it got to temp it run like crap till i could get it out

  2. #12
    VXRed
    Join Date
    14th May 2011
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    Interesting one. But i did bleed the system by letting it warm up till tjermostat opened with the cap off. Had a few drives also with removing the cap after each one after cool down ofcourse. I believe all air or ayleast majority of it were bled out in about 2 days after the flush.

  3. #13
    VXRed
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    20th June 2017
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    Quote Originally Posted by chee_dee View Post
    Raz, FWIW, I replaced my manifold a while back. Had to remove the turbo to fit it on the new one. When all was done the car had an issue.

    The car would sound like it has a cone on ( dumping sound very loud) even though the standard airbox was fitted. Eventually found 2 vacuum hoses that I swopped when I reinstalled everything. The one hose was the one going to the recirc valve.

    So based on that, I would think that the flutter sound (especially with no cone on ) might be an indication in that direction.
    may be my recirc valve is shafted then, it makes me laugh how they put them on the turbo and there plastic

  4. #14
    VXRed
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    20th June 2017
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    Quote Originally Posted by chee_dee View Post
    Interesting one. But i did bleed the system by letting it warm up till tjermostat opened with the cap off. Had a few drives also with removing the cap after each one after cool down ofcourse. I believe all air or ayleast majority of it were bled out in about 2 days after the flush.
    you will know if there is still some in there when you turn it off you will hear it bubbling in the header tank and if its still in the heater matrix the heaters wont get warm

    it might have nothing to do with it but if it only started after you did the flush i would put my money on something you did then

  5. #15
    VXRed
    Join Date
    14th May 2011
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    Agree with you there. But for all I know it has been doing it for a while. Without the boost gauge it wouldn't have been this obvious.

    Oh and yes I know what bubling you talking about. I don't get none. So i presume bleeding has worked.

  6. #16
    VXRed
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    20th June 2017
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    it could be a number of things then boost controller a pipe or something

    it should be ok then as long as your heaters are blowing warm

  7. #17
    VXRed
    Join Date
    14th May 2011
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    Problem solved.

    Found my Waste Gate actuator to be over "pre-loaded". This mustve happened last year when I replaced my manifold. Re adjusted it andcar seems to be totally different now. ECU seems to still be learning boost curves cause I restted the ECU after the adjustment. Car was boosting steady at around 0.8 bar this morning and getting better through the day.

    When I came home now I had the fright of my life in 3rd. LOL. Took 2nd to 6k, boosted a strong steady 0.9 bar. Then pushed into 3rd and boost went straight to 1 bar, and then in went to 1.2 bar...WTF... LOL. I let go of the loud pedal immediately.

    Guess it's the first time I see the overboost feature on my car LMAO!!!

    Will test her again tomorrow.

    Conclusion: Don't over tighten Waste Gate actuator thinking you will steal a little boost!!! You'll just cause the car to go in and out of limp mode every time with no warning lights. LOL

  8. #18
    VXRed
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    20th June 2017
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    nice to know you have sorted it bud

    just to put things to an end for everyone whos looking at this and might have the same problem how did you set the actuator back up

  9. #19
    VXRed
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    14th May 2011
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    It was set it way too tight. I losenend the 2 nuts securing it, turned the one closest to battery finger tight, then do the other one finger tight, then basically hand torqued the one on battery side tight with a spanner. I would guess it was around 12NM. Thats it. Reset the battery and let the ECU start adjusting the boost curves better and better each drive. There is a thread on here somewhere that explains the set up as well.

  10. #20
    VXRed
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    20th June 2017
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    I might have to have a look at mine along with the recirc valve my misses noticed the noise this morning when I dropped her at work she said what's that noise its annoying lol

    I will have a look for the thread

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