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  1. #1
    VXRed Hal's Avatar
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    Default Fault Code 110611 (P10611)

    Hey guys, I need some advice on this fault code which came up on Sunday evening. I was driving back home from a friend near Bondi Beach in Sydney, and as I was about 15 mins from home I ended up on a motorway and thought I'd give a nice little boot. I was in third gear and within a few seconds, I had the spanner light come on with restricted power (which I assume was limp mode).

    It's worth mentioning that I only drive my car once a week, sometimes once every two weeks. It is literally my toy, and most of the time I drive smoothly, with the occasional little blast in the low gears (nothing out of the ordinary). The car is running the standard map, but does have a full cobra turbo back exhaust, sports cat, stage 2 front mount, rear BCS delete, CDTi airbox conversion and courtenay top hat. I have run this car since April 2017 with absolutely ZERO problems whatsoever. This is my first encountered issue.

    Anyway, after checking the peddle test it came up with 110611, which I'm sure you all know is related to boost. I've done all the usual checks i.e. boost pipes, vacuum hoses etc. All my hoses are pretty much brand new (courtenay hoses) and everything is on solid as a rock. The actuator is on in and tight and has the correct thread count. The rear vacuum box has missing hoses on two of the rear ports and the single port as well, but I assume this is because of the rear BCS delete? I bought the car this way so I assume this is fine. I couldn't really check/test the solenoids so I thought I'd check the MAF.

    I checked out some YouTube vids and a lot of people are saying that if the MAF is working well, the car should cut out when disconnected. If it's dead, the car should carry on running. Of course I took this with a pinch of salt and have looked at all posts relating to this fault code, and have tried everything I possibly can without getting a Tech 2 on it.

    Anyway, I ran the car to operating temperature and disconnected the MAF sensor. The revs dropped slightly but the car carried on running. I noticed the traction control light (triangle with car in the middle) came up when I did this. After reconnecting the MAF sensor, and switching the engine off and back on, the traction control light disappeared, but the spanner light remained (as I was expecting).

    My questions is, if the MAF sensor is truly dead, would disconnecting it and the engine not cutting out confirm this is the case? Or does the Z20LEH not care and carry on running? I guess I'm looking for someone to let me know if this has worked for them (or not?).

    Apologies for the long winded post guys; I'm hoping the detail I have provided will be sufficient in me getting the right answers I need.

    Thanks!
    Last edited by Hal; 16th May 2018 at 07:47 AM.

  2. #2
    VXR enough Markpvxr's Avatar
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    I'm 90% sure if you disconnect the maf, a car will run regardless (not the smoothest as it does not know the ratios) If the fault goes, then you know the maf is faulty. You can test this by driving on boost with maf disconnected.
    Arden Astra with black bits

    Engine Originally built by wg motorworks blew up after 34 mile so Muni Singh had to sort out his mess 👍🏻

  3. #3
    VXRed Hal's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Markpvxr View Post
    I'm 90% sure if you disconnect the maf, a car will run regardless (not the smoothest as it does not know the ratios) If the fault goes, then you know the maf is faulty. You can test this by driving on boost with maf disconnected.
    The videos on youtube had all the cars cut out, but I gather that seeing as the engine note changed slightly and the traction control light came on, it means the MAF is actually working. That would leave out the front BCS. Is there anything else I could do/check before changing the BCS?

  4. #4
    VXRed Hal's Avatar
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    Also, if the rear BCS has been deleted, should I still have all vacuum hoses in play on the vacuum box behind the engine? Only reason why I'm asking is because the two on the vacuum box and one single one just above do not have any vacuum hoses. I just assumed because the car already had a rear BCS delete, that it wasn't necessary to have them.

  5. #5
    VXR Adam"san" w20adm's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hal View Post
    The videos on youtube had all the cars cut out, but I gather that seeing as the engine note changed slightly and the traction control light came on, it means the MAF is actually working. That would leave out the front BCS. Is there anything else I could do/check before changing the BCS?
    Esp traction control light comes on regular when the MAF is bust mate. I've had 2 mafs go. Both slightly different symptoms but both times esp light came on.
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  6. #6
    VXR enough Markpvxr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hal View Post
    The videos on youtube had all the cars cut out, but I gather that seeing as the engine note changed slightly and the traction control light came on, it means the MAF is actually working. That would leave out the front BCS. Is there anything else I could do/check before changing the BCS?
    No idea mate, I’ve always known that you can disconnect a maf and it will still run.. Including my vxr wether it’s faulty or not.

    When you disconnect, it would bring on a light as the sensor is not plugged in!!
    Arden Astra with black bits

    Engine Originally built by wg motorworks blew up after 34 mile so Muni Singh had to sort out his mess 👍🏻

  7. #7
    VXRed Hal's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by w20adm View Post
    Esp traction control light comes on regular when the MAF is bust mate. I've had 2 mafs go. Both slightly different symptoms but both times esp light came on.
    Fair enough. Based on that info, my MAF is fine. I spoke to a mate in London who's a bit of a wizard and he reckons that it's simply a glitch. I don't drive the car much, therefore he thinks a simple battery disconnect should do the trick. I hope so, because I've checked everything I can possibly check and there's no signs of anything going wrong.

    It'll either be a glitch, or the front BCS is going. I guess I'll find out soon. I'm going to disconnect the battery now, I'll connect it later and give it a test drive.

    I'll let you all know what happens.


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  8. #8
    VXRed Hal's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Markpvxr View Post
    No idea mate, I’ve always known that you can disconnect a maf and it will still run.. Including my vxr wether it’s faulty or not.

    When you disconnect, it would bring on a light as the sensor is not plugged in!!
    Yes mate I think you're right; I'll see how disconnecting the battery goes. I'm hoping it's just a glitch.


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  9. #9
    VXRed Hal's Avatar
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    Ok so quick update chaps; I disconnected the battery to reset the ECU. I just took the car out to the gym and back. Firstly, 1st and 2nd gear kept spinning up the wheels around 3000-4000rpm which is unusual (especially in 2nd) considering it's dry and my tyres have 80% tread. Secondly, in 3rd gear I'm seeing the boost gauge climb over 20 PSI, at one point I reached 25 PSI. I can feel the wheels almost spinning up. The turbo is behaving fine and is happily pulling, with no jerking or fluctuations, just purely boosting way too much.

    Am I correct in thinking that the front boost control solenoid needs replacing? I haven't got any warning lights on the dash as of yet and apart from the example above, I've driven the car as I normally do, which is just cruising.

    I've also double and triple checked all boost and vacuum pipes, everything is absolutely solid and the actuator seems to be fine as well.

  10. #10
    VXR enough Markpvxr's Avatar
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    Could well be, They are common

    When they go though, It's usually all boost then none, all boost then none etc so
    Arden Astra with black bits

    Engine Originally built by wg motorworks blew up after 34 mile so Muni Singh had to sort out his mess 👍🏻

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