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  1. #21
    VXR Adam"san" w20adm's Avatar
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    And no need to gap plugs these days.
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  2. #22
    VXR Nothing comes close R15VXR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JaamesVXR View Post
    Car is still playing up. Started kangerooing on part throttle especially when cold. Flat out is fine but part throttle you get a misfire. Done the pedal test with the following faults..

    110611
    124358

    Done my googling and the first fault serifs to come back to boost solenoid and the second comes back to recirc (which is a forge item)

    Could this be the cause my lag/power issues?

    How do I test a recirc? Wouldn’t of thought forge one would give any issues?

    Also going back to the misfire. New plugs were fitted before the map, the correct plugs for the car. PFR6TG is whatever they’re called however I didn’t gao them as was told it’s a straight fit and forget. Now I’ve read online people having to gap them?

    As already stated the 2nd code is usually associated with a vac leak... rip etc lookup "turkey noise" but if its a Forge recirc' thats impossible - check whole of VAC system

    1st code and the sensation of "kangerooing" could be associated with unmetered air - back in the days lots of ppl had this when they didn't undertake the crossover delete correctly

  3. #23
    VXR Nothing comes close R15VXR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by w20adm View Post
    And no need to gap plugs these days.
    ^^ correct as long as they are the correct ones and in this case PFR6T-G's which are the ones made for GM and badged up as the OEM ones

    Some fit non std plugs which will need regapping as the gap isn't correct for the LEH engine

  4. #24
    VXRed
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    I need to get a further understanding of this BCS delete as far as I can see the only pipes are from recirc into FPR which then t pieces into Boost gauge then into throttle body. Is that al the vac pipes? I didn’t do the delete so I’m not to sure. In terms of the MAF I read online if you unplug it car should die. Mine didn’t just carried on running albeit a few warning lights on dash abs tcs etc.

    The plugs aren’t from GM they’re just NGK PFR6TG what was said above can’t remember code off top of my head. Guessing these need gapping as they are not Vauxhall stamped
    Last edited by JaamesVXR; 6th August 2018 at 12:54 PM.

  5. #25
    VXR Adam"san" w20adm's Avatar
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    No the maf unplug test is for the opposite way round. Often the cars cut out when a maf is gone and unplugging them and starting the car will stop it cutting out, hence a way to sometimes diagnose the maf. But it doesn't always cause a cut out in its earlier stages of failure.
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  6. #26
    VXRed
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    Right okay then. Is there a way to test if the Maf is faulty? Obviously I’m guessing they must be replaced with OE Bosch item which isn’t cheap for it to not be the issue. I’m guessing the Maf will be causing the kangerooing part throttle

    Obviously my Boost issue could be down to the turbo but again if it’s not that I don’t want to spend out a good few hundred on the turbo and be faced with the same issue

  7. #27
    VXR Adam"san" w20adm's Avatar
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    Broken maf will misread afr etc so yes will cause hesitation and misfires and the like.
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  8. #28
    VXRed
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    Okay mate thanks - the EML light has come on which to my understanding is more than likely Lambda Sensor issue. That could cause jerking couldn’t it? I took the battery off to clear the code and once I switched engine off and back on again the light reappeared

  9. #29
    VXR Adam"san" w20adm's Avatar
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    Could be the 1st lambda yes. If you replace it though make sure you get a brand new oe bosch unit.
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  10. #30
    VXR Nothing comes close R15VXR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JaamesVXR View Post
    Okay mate thanks - the EML light has come on which to my understanding is more than likely Lambda Sensor issue. That could cause jerking couldn’t it? I took the battery off to clear the code and once I switched engine off and back on again the light reappeared
    NO!

    The EML light only comes on with the differential of the two readings ( o2 sensors ) on a large bore exhaust and is normally resolved by fitting an elbow or such to the o2 sensor after the main CAT, should the main cat be OK - on a std exhaust its informing you the main cat needs replacing only. Has no effect on mixture etc

    iirc the EML light now is an instant MOT failure as of May 2018

    The o2 sensor on the precat is responsible for mixture

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