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  1. #1
    VXR Adam"san" w20adm's Avatar
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    Default How to change engine oil

    Now this to some people, mainly those mechanically minded who have maintained their own cars for years is obviously going to be a "teach your grandmother to suck eggs" or obvious thread. But there are those out there who still don't know and as I changed mine today I thought I may as well make a "how to".

    Ok so, as always, this is a GUIDE only. I cannot accept any responsibility for any damages, personal injury or the like which may result as a consequence of using this guide on your own car.

    So realistically you will generally need:

    Nitrile gloves
    T40 torx bit
    Oil filter wrench
    Trolley jack and Jack pad
    Jack stand
    Wheel removal tools (17mm socket, I would also suggest a lowish torque impact gun)
    Breaker bar
    5-6 litres of suitable engine oil (i recommend gm original 5w 30 dexos 2)
    New Oil filter (again I recommend gm original)

    I would also have a good few disposable rags or paper towels to hand as it can make quite a mess.

    So first step is to get the oil warm. Take a short drive and allow the engine to reach operating temp for a good few minutes. Then when you return, leave it to stand for a good 5 or 10 minutes to cool slightly.

    First, open the bonnet



    Next, remove the wheel nut caps from the drivers side front wheel (having a little clip tool helps to avoid wheel damage)



    Next, break the wheel nuts loose with the breaker bar (don't loosen too much, just take the initial tightness out of the nuts)




    Insert trolley jack with Jack pad under the front drivers side jacking point



    Jack up to suitable height to insert jack stand




    Slide jack stand under, I normally use the front subframe as it's nice and sturdy to support the car



    Next look for the oil sump pan and the drainage bolt as shown in pic below



    Use the impact gun to remove the wheel nuts, remove wheel and set aside safely



    Next look for the oil filter just behind the wheel.



    Place your oil drainage pan under the sump plug and area under the filter. My pan was big enough to fit under both, but unfortunately my jack stand stopped this from happening (doh!). Luckily I had an old bucket spare which I could put under the oil filter.




    Using ratchet and torx bit, loosen the sump plug



    Unscrew the rest of the way by hand and quickly remove and allow oil to flow out. Have a rag ready to wipe the plug and your gloved hand clean of oil



    Next, remove the old filter with your filter wrench then unscrew fully by hand






    Make sure your pan/bucket is under the filter location



    Now leave for approx 20/30 minutes to drain the old oil away.

    After you've waited a while, wipe away any loose old oil from around the filter area and take your new oil filter out




    Next, take your new oil, dip your gloved finger into the new oil and smear a fine bead all the way around the rubber seal as shown. This will help to form a good seal, and also make it easier to remove again for the next oil change.




    Make sure old oil has been wiped away from the seal area and screw new filter onto the engine. I recommend hand tightening it and then just slightly nipping it up with the filter wrench. Do not screw on too tight.



    Once new filter is on wipe away excess oil from around the drain plug area and refit drain plug. I was swapping my oe one for a magnetic one here so my pic is slightly different. You'll obviously be refitting your old drain plug, provided it is still in good condition.




    Nip it up with the ratchet, but DO NOT over tighten. Just use common sense here.



    Now there will be old oil all over the lower wheel arm from the removed filter (unavoidable due to poor design imo). Wipe this all away, mop up any spills and remove the drain pan/s away.





    Refit wheel and refit wheel nuts (tighten to near hand tight but don't tighten too much yet)




    Remove jack stand and lower car





    Remove filler cap




    Begin filling new oil. Put a couple of litres in, then check dipstick, repeat til the full level on the dipstick is reached




    When the top notch (the one nearest the handle) is reached the car is full. DO NOT overfill. If you've over filled you'll have to re drain some out and top up again, this of course means jacking up again etc so try to avoid this as it's time consuming.



    Replace filler cap



    Run engine for 5 minutes to help circulate the oil, then re check dipstick. Also check the drain plug underneath and filter area to ensure there are no leaks while the car is running.



    If all is well like it should be, the last step is to correctly torque the wheel. Use your torque wrench at 100lbft and tighten in a star pattern




    Refit wheel nut caps



    And job done! Now to tidy up.

    Pour old oil into your empty 5 litre bottle. This can then be taken and disposed of at your local recycling centre.



    And that's it. After a few days and a few miles recheck oil levels to ensure still is still well.

    Thanks for reading!

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    Last edited by w20adm; 17th September 2018 at 06:50 PM.
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  2. #2
    VXRed blooded CoolStory's Avatar
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    I just pour my old oil down the drain **** it........


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  3. #3
    VXR Adam"san" w20adm's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by CoolStory View Post
    I just pour my old oil down the drain **** it........


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    I can't possibly condone such neglectful actions ........
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  4. #4
    VXR enough Ant21's Avatar
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    I'd suggest the following edits..

    100ftlbs is overtight. Factory spec is 110nm.
    For the drain plug, common sense is best, however it's factory spec is 25nm.

    Also, remove the oil filler cap and or dipstick when draining the oil to help it flow.
    Placing a rag under the oil filter before removal greatly reduces the mess caused on the wishbone.
    Filling up the new oil filter prior to installation is also beneficial, although due to the angle it's impossible to fill it up completely.

    Finally, jacking the car up on both sides to aid drainage is also helpful

    Apart from that, top how-to! Should help a few people.

  5. #5
    VXRacing ahead tye_time's Avatar
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    I'd also add to filling the oil filter slightly with oil before screwing it on

    - sent from OP5T

  6. #6
    VXR Adam"san" w20adm's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ant21 View Post
    I'd suggest the following edits..

    100ftlbs is overtight. Factory spec is 110nm.
    For the drain plug, common sense is best, however it's factory spec is 25nm.

    Also, remove the oil filler cap and or dipstick when draining the oil to help it flow.
    Placing a rag under the oil filter before removal greatly reduces the mess caused on the wishbone.
    Filling up the new oil filter prior to installation is also beneficial, although due to the angle it's impossible to fill it up completely.

    Finally, jacking the car up on both sides to aid drainage is also helpful

    Apart from that, top how-to! Should help a few people.
    Sound tips to add.

    The rag over the wishbone is a particularly good tip.

    I've always used 100lbft for the wheel torque. I tried to find a figure for the torque of the drain plug but couldn't . However 25nm is pretty much just slightly nipped up with a ratchet so as good as.

    Biggest tip for drainage is defo getting. Good The oil warm.
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  7. #7
    VXR Adam"san" w20adm's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tye_time View Post
    I'd also add to filling the oil filter slightly with oil before screwing it on

    - sent from OP5T
    Yeah I guess.

    For me it's just asking for more mess though lol
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  8. #8
    VXRed blooded CoolStory's Avatar
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    Default How to change engine oil

    I once changed the oil on my cav GSi and forgot to fit the drain plug heard splashing on the floor before i realised. Epic fail!


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  9. #9
    VXR Adam"san" w20adm's Avatar
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    Yep, you need to be switched on.
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