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  1. #21
    VXRed
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    Quote Originally Posted by Noxious89123 View Post
    Most manufacturers quote somewhat optimistic figures, some more than others I guess.
    True....I also heard something today that I was surprised at and goes against what I thought I knew....So piston 4 issue on turbo cars, people say may be due to not warming up and cooling down. but then I read something saying its worse to idle on start up than to drive slowly to warm up and it only takes 30 seconds to get oil through the engine & you're good to go.

    What do you guys think about that? (Also googled it out of curiosity and found similar answers...)

  2. #22
    VXRed Noxious89123's Avatar
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    Definitely drive it to warm it up. Idling takes ages, and don't forget that just because the coolant comes up to operating temperatures doesn't mean the oil has! The oil will warm up much faster from driving than idling. And idling the car won't do anything for the gearbox oil, brakes or tyres either.

    For what it's worth, I beat the **** out of my engine. I only drive like 2 miles to work, and the coolant will only just 60°C as I park up. Been doing it for years, and it still has fantastic compression and doesn't burn any oil. It'll probably die sooner than if I babied it, but then there would be no point having it. I think GM just built the Z/A/B16LEx too fragile. I've got some information on the Z20LET somewhere that I found, and the testing they did on that powerplant was brutal. They did some mental thermal shock testing that involved starting the engine up at -25°C and immediately holding it at full load.
    Astra GSi ~ VXR Injectors / VXR 80mm AFM / VXR Turbo / CDTi Airbox / TS Recirc / K&N / 3" Piper Exhaust / CS FMIC / EBC YellowStuff / Bridgestone S001 / Bilstein B12 Pro-kit / Whiteline RARB
    CS Mapped 285 BHP / 340 Ft.lbs

  3. #23
    VXRacing ahead vxrmjp's Avatar
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    There are other vx engines that are less sensitive to mods, warming up / cooling down etc, but when you consider the plus points of how fun the cars are, reasonable hot hatch running costs and sensible repair costs, even for major components, they do offer very good overall value.
    You could buy something else, avoid the box and p4 risk, but end up with something that has other major issues, costs massive amounts to fix or costs double to buy in the first place.
    I had a brand new seat Ibiza FR several years ago, it destroyed the gear box at a very low mileage and cost several grand to fix, luckily under seat's warranty, so things càn go wrong with anything! Just be prepared, research and have a pot of cash for repairs available. Hopefully, you won't need it.
    Regarding manufacturers mpg figures, many are so inaccurate and unachievable, they are useless. These cars are quite uneconomical, but there are other cars much worse. The amount quoted figures deviate varies considerably. I've found ford and Nissan to be about 50% off, Vauxhall, about 20%, vag are probably fairly close to what you actually get.
    Using super unleaded will get you more mpg, but the car will run perfectly well on regular fuel.
    SAVE THE VXR AND STOP BUYING SUV TOSH!

  4. #24
    VXRacing ahead tye_time's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Noxious89123 View Post
    I've got some information on the Z20LET somewhere that I found, and the testing they did on that powerplant was brutal. They did some mental thermal shock testing that involved starting the engine up at -25°C and immediately holding it at full load.
    They are definitely great engines, both the LET and LEH.

  5. #25
    VXRed
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    Quote Originally Posted by Noxious89123 View Post
    Definitely drive it to warm it up. Idling takes ages, and don't forget that just because the coolant comes up to operating temperatures doesn't mean the oil has! The oil will warm up much faster from driving than idling. And idling the car won't do anything for the gearbox oil, brakes or tyres either.

    For what it's worth, I beat the **** out of my engine. I only drive like 2 miles to work, and the coolant will only just 60°C as I park up. Been doing it for years, and it still has fantastic compression and doesn't burn any oil. It'll probably die sooner than if I babied it, but then there would be no point having it. I think GM just built the Z/A/B16LEx too fragile. I've got some information on the Z20LET somewhere that I found, and the testing they did on that powerplant was brutal. They did some mental thermal shock testing that involved starting the engine up at -25°C and immediately holding it at full load.
    So when I see things referring to the P4 issue and warming up etc. Its still far better to simply, turn on and maybe sit for 30sec-1min then drive sensibly? Than to sit and let it warm up?

  6. #26
    VXRed
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    Yeah i fully agree...Im a firm believer in luck when it comes to cars. Take one and it might have 0 problems. Take a different one and it has all the problems.

    What are the repair prices like for Vxrs (in general), relatively reasonable or cheap/expensive?
    Also in your opinion does the additional Mpg from super unleaded outweigh the extra cost for it? (Any other benefits too?)

  7. #27
    VXRed blooded Arron D's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AlexC View Post
    Yeah i fully agree...Im a firm believer in luck when it comes to cars. Take one and it might have 0 problems. Take a different one and it has all the problems.

    What are the repair prices like for Vxrs (in general), relatively reasonable or cheap/expensive?
    Also in your opinion does the additional Mpg from super unleaded outweigh the extra cost for it? (Any other benefits too?)
    I set off straight away but drive sensible for ten mins before using full boost etc And have had no problems so far.

    I think part prices are reasonable, some general stuff like tyres range from 80 (cheap ones) to 200 (top end) but stuff that are common faults are fairly priced. coil packs, spark plugs, brakes etc are fair price imo. Obviously if you bought from Vauxhall you would pay more as opposed to say euro car parts or ebay etc. Alot of parts can be 'upgraded' but if you was sticking with standard replacements then shouldnt be too costly really with most stuff. Replacement bumpers and bodywork stuff if got damaged could be costly. Someone else in different situation could see these things as costly though just my opinion.

    the advantages are supposed to make the engine perform better with high octane fuel but I personally didn't notice any difference so I put both in
    Last edited by Arron D; 26th October 2018 at 03:42 AM.
    Corsa D Vxracing Various bits & bobs done
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  8. #28
    VXRed Noxious89123's Avatar
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    Genuine parts all the way for repairs. Some people will complain that vauxhalls are unreliable, but those same people bought the car because it was comparitively cheaper than say, an Audi. Those same people then cheap out on maintenance, parts and repairs, and then blame the manufacturer for the unreliability.

    My car uses either OEM or upgraded parts, no cheap'n'cheerful aftermarket bits, and has been totally solid for the 4+ years and 25k+ miles I've put on it. And I don't baby it. It probably got warmed up and cooled down before and after drives for about 6 months, but that quickly went out the window because I mostly do short journeys that are barely enough to get the coolant up to temp, atleast in the cooler parts of the year. Just to clarify; mines a Z20LET, not _16LEx. Don't think I could get away with my treatment with one of those!

    Regarding fuel, I can't see the extra efficiency of premium fuel offsetting the extra cost. The cost difference is measurable, the fuel economy? Almost non-existant difference, well within margin-of-error for such an experiment. It's worth running premium fuel for the "extra insurance" in a boosted engine, and almost essential when modding or remapping, in my opinion. And definitely don't get your car mapped whilst on 99RON if you intend to run it daily on 95RON.
    Astra GSi ~ VXR Injectors / VXR 80mm AFM / VXR Turbo / CDTi Airbox / TS Recirc / K&N / 3" Piper Exhaust / CS FMIC / EBC YellowStuff / Bridgestone S001 / Bilstein B12 Pro-kit / Whiteline RARB
    CS Mapped 285 BHP / 340 Ft.lbs

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