Closed Thread
Page 1 of 6 1 2 3 ... LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 51
  1. #1
    VXR enough Gnasher's Avatar
    Join Date
    26th July 2006
    Posts
    2,035

    Default HOW TO fit a Forge Motorsport recirculating dump valve

    Firstly, the boring stuff…

    This guide is exactly that – a guide. If you are in any way unsure that you can do this without damaging your car or yourself, get a professional in to do the job. The author nor the website publishing this guide accept any responsibility for any damage/problems that may result from you attempting this yourself.

    Right then, as there's been loads of problems with the standard DV here's how to replace it - I assume it will be similair with the EVOMS one but I am not 100% on that one as I've never fitted it!

    Tools required are...

    Modified 5mm allen key
    Hacksaw (to modify the allen key)
    T25 Torq screwdriver (or similair)
    Pliers (to remove clips from hoses on front BCS) - I used a socket driver as I have aftermarket hose clips

    To modify the allen key simply cut it down on the short side to 20mm. This gives exactly the right amount of clearance for the job.



    Here's what you get in the packet.



    You will receive the Forge dump valve and a spare spring. Mine came fitted with the 'Green' spring and had a 'Yellow' spring in the packaging. After speaking to Forge, they recommended that for a standard car to use the green spring and for a mapped car to use the yellow spring.

    If you need to change the spring that is fitted to the dump valve then simply unscrew the top of the valve like so (don't worry, the spring isn't under a lot of tension or anything)...



    Which will allow access to the fitted spring.



    Simply swap this out and refit the top of the dump valve. CAUTION - The rubber O ring that seals the cap needs to be fitted into the groove on the dump valve body. It may have come out and got stuck in the cap (as in the photo above - the ring is currently not in the groove).

    Here’s a photo with both springs showing how the colours are quite similar – be careful choosing!



    So lets get under the bonnet and start. It might sound obvious but make sure the engine is cold - you won't damage the engine doing it hot but you are dealing with one of the hottest parts of the engine!!

    1. First thing to do is remove the front boost control solenoid. Remove the front T25 torq screw completely.



    2. Loosen the rear Torq screw a couple of turns.



    3. Noting which pipe goes to which part, remove the pipe from the wastegate actuator (you may have the standard hose clips which will require pliers to remove)



    and the inlet side of the turbo



    which will allow you to move the boost control solenoid to within the loop of the power steering pipe.



    4. This gives access to the 3 bolts holding the original dump valve in place.



    5. Pull off the vacuum hose from the centre of the dump valve.



    6. Remove the lower front allen bolt (the awkward one) first with your cut down allen key.



    7. Remove the other 2 bolts in any order. You can use your cut down allen key but I used pretty much all of my socket extension pieces and the little universal joint with a 5mm allen socket.









    8. Once these have all been removed, pull out the original dump valve. This is what you should have (I’ve refitted the first boost control solenoid bolt in the photo). The second photo shows the split mine had in it – this was enough to affect the operation of the dump valve, so it doesn’t take a lot.







    9. Ensuring all the O rings are in place, put the dump valve into the hole left by the original. IMPORTANT – there is a flat section in the outer flange of the Forge dump valve. This needs to go to the 10 o’clock position as it goes in (where the ‘Forge’ logo is on the photos – yours might line up differently though, so check for the flat section). Simply replace the bracket and the 3 bolts (do the awkward one last – it makes it easier) to fix the new dump valve in place.





    10. Now refit the boost control solenoid and reconnect the 2 pipes.



    11. Double check all your bolts are tight and your pipes/hoses are secure.

    12. Job done – no more turkey noise!!

    Personally I’m well chuffed with mine, as it spools up quicker after gearchanges!
    Last edited by Gnasher; 21st September 2009 at 08:53 PM.
    Sold - Arden Blue Astra VXR on 19's
    Ordered - Pure White Golf GTI on 18's (couldn't stomach paying for 19" tyres any more!)

  2. #2
    Trader Phatashki's Avatar
    Join Date
    5th April 2009
    Posts
    4,441

    Default

    Nice guide mate, Altho is it me, I cant read it cause the txt is black on a black background, Unless I highlight it?

  3. #3
    VXR enough Gnasher's Avatar
    Join Date
    26th July 2006
    Posts
    2,035

    Default

    I couldn't work out how to do the 'auto' setup on it - I'll change it to white (although will this upset people on different background themes?)
    Sold - Arden Blue Astra VXR on 19's
    Ordered - Pure White Golf GTI on 18's (couldn't stomach paying for 19" tyres any more!)

  4. #4
    Are you VXR enough?
    Join Date
    6th February 2008
    Posts
    798

    Default

    excellent write up gnasher, will come in handy as i've still to change mine out

  5. #5
    VXR Torque of the Devil PaulieMB's Avatar
    Join Date
    3rd October 2008
    Posts
    7,783

    Default

    Fine job there Gnasher! Well done, Fella!! x
    Was TV Mag Featured Astra VXR Nurburgring Edition 353, gone but not forgotten. Current car MY15 RR Evoque Dynamic SD4 Zanzibar Bronze with Black Pack, Magnetic Ride, 20" Forged OEM Stormer Alloys, Fully Loaded xx

  6. #6
    Well the WWW hasnt cured my judder, maybe a spell will nige87's Avatar
    Join Date
    8th December 2008
    Posts
    4,985

    Default

    Top guide mate.. Will make it easier doing mine now

  7. #7
    VXR Monkey Malfunction
    Join Date
    5th July 2009
    Posts
    1,247

    Default

    nice mate. is that turkey noise,, is that thw wastegate?

  8. #8
    VXR Dyno Destroyer
    Join Date
    29th November 2008
    Posts
    2,360

    Default

    May be easier your way, I must have really tiny hands though, because I didn't disconnect a single hose, or move the Solenoid

  9. #9
    VXR enough Gnasher's Avatar
    Join Date
    26th July 2006
    Posts
    2,035

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Abbo View Post
    May be easier your way, I must have really tiny hands though, because I didn't disconnect a single hose, or move the Solenoid
    It is actually possible to do it without removing the boost control solenoid but it makes it an absolute pig of a job to do as you get just under a sixth of a turn on the awkward bolt on the dump valve, whereas you get more than a sixth of a turn if you remove it.
    Sold - Arden Blue Astra VXR on 19's
    Ordered - Pure White Golf GTI on 18's (couldn't stomach paying for 19" tyres any more!)

  10. #10
    VXR enough CrYsB's Avatar
    Join Date
    15th September 2008
    Posts
    1,083

    Default

    So thats the little blighter that spilts? And this ones more durable etc?

Closed Thread
Page 1 of 6 1 2 3 ... LastLast

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts