ICE Install

[M40COO]

Guys,

Finally got round to putting pics up of how I installed my sub amp and component speakers in the Vixer.

It is not a complete 'idiots' guide, it's to give you an idea of how I did mine.
Links to AstraSport easier than rewriting :wink:

Doors: Clicky
Interior Cabling: Clicky
Spare Wheel Sub Enclosure: Clicky
Running Cables: Clicky

I hope it helps some people out.
John

[cruizer]

Awsome work.

I am looking at doing a full install in my xvr but am a little worried about breaking stuff as I dont know how it all comes apart. Now thanks to you I practicly have a haynes manual to installing audio in an astra. I hope "refitting is the reverse of removal"

I was going to build a sub enclosure in the spare wheel well. I have done a couple of boxes before but always mdf. Am a little worried about trying my hand at a fibreglass box but I just think it will be easier and more effeciant use of space than mdf. Can you give me any pointers, the only fibreglassing I have done is I modified an centre console on my old 306.

Also what volume is the spare wheel well? I was expecting to have to build the floor up a little to get the correct volume.

[M40COO]

I've not actually measured the volume - although strictly speaking I should have.


Tips for fibreglassing...

I used foil and masking tape to be the barrier between fibreglass and car metal..... If I did it again, I would use something diffrerent, like heavy suty polythene !
I'd also sound deaden the well before glassing.

When you're ready to start layering up fibreglass, make sure you have enough stips of the actual fibre...so you dont waste resin mix.
I found halfords selling fibreglass kits (yellow packaging) decent enough.

Also I have been advised that I should/could have used a layer of deadening wihin the layers of fibreglass. - It all helps.

finally - very important - VENTILATION !
I did get a few headaches because of this stuff !

[napster]

Thanks M40COO. I remember you sharing some advice before http://www.vxronline.co.uk/messagebo...pic.php?p=9317 so I will add these links to the rest of the file I'm creating!

But the links you've posted have brought up a few queries that I'd like to go through with you.

1. Front components - Do you HAVE to add wires and run them from the door in order to amp them? (In your case THROUGH the proper channel in the door - very time consuming to hide the wires but very effective and looks good.) Can you not just use the existing wires that are there from the factory?

I was under the impression that where the existing factory fitted front speaker wires (coming from the door speakers) end, and connect somewhere behind the CD30 unit, you can cut them and then add and run your new wires to the amp.

I'm using the existing wires to connect up the rears so that the HU powers them.

I know that running thicker wires would be better in terms of what they can handle but I'm only after approx 150 rms to the fronts from around 1000 watt amp.

2. Is it necessary to make a mounting plate for the door woofers even though mine will be 16.5cm cone diameter? I thought it'd be a straight swap?

3. Sound deadening, sludge, skins, fibreglass???? I am totally lost. What is this all about? How necessary is it to instal these things? What's there use/added value, etc? I'm not trying to be awkward or clever - I simply am such a novice that you might as well be talking a foreign language.

PS I'm running twin 10" subs in a ported box.

Thanks

[M40COO]

PM Sent

[napster]

Thanks

[BasilD]

Thanks M40COO. I remember you sharing some advice before http://www.vxronline.co.uk/messagebo...pic.php?p=9317 so I will add these links to the rest of the file I'm creating!

But the links you've posted have brought up a few queries that I'd like to go through with you.

1. Front components - Do you HAVE to add wires and run them from the door in order to amp them? (In your case THROUGH the proper channel in the door - very time consuming to hide the wires but very effective and looks good.) Can you not just use the existing wires that are there from the factory?

I was under the impression that where the existing factory fitted front speaker wires (coming from the door speakers) end, and connect somewhere behind the CD30 unit, you can cut them and then add and run your new wires to the amp.

I'm using the existing wires to connect up the rears so that the HU powers them.

I know that running thicker wires would be better in terms of what they can handle but I'm only after approx 150 rms to the fronts from around 1000 watt amp.

2. Is it necessary to make a mounting plate for the door woofers even though mine will be 16.5cm cone diameter? I thought it'd be a straight swap?

3. Sound deadening, sludge, skins, fibreglass???? I am totally lost. What is this all about? How necessary is it to instal these things? What's there use/added value, etc? I'm not trying to be awkward or clever - I simply am such a novice that you might as well be talking a foreign language.

PS I'm running twin 10" subs in a ported box.

Thanks

In answer to your questions:

1) no you do not, but there are no pro's to leaving them as is. Upgrading the wires if you are amping is the only way to go, especially from a saftey point of view, as well as sound quality.
On the setup you are suggesting 12 guage wire would be the minimum I would recommend.

2) For the front yes, espcially to get any decent speakers in there without clkearance issues, for the rear no.

3) Sound deading in some form or another is a definate. Why it reduces panel vibration, quitens the car, keeps the car interior cooler, and lastly it allows your soundsystem to be heard at its best. In fact the bass, vocals, midrange will all sound better to your ear. Of course I am oversimplyfing but hey I am trying to keep it simple.

[napster]

BasilD thanks for your reply.

I follow your logic. The speaker cables currently running into the doors will finish somewhere behind the HU. If I've got to run the cable from the amp to behind the HU to connect with the stock wiring, then I might as well run it through to the doors. By the time I've messed around behind the HU, removing the front speaker cables from the ISO plug and spliced in the cables from the boot, I might as well have run an extra 4ft of cable into the doors.

For mounting the speakers and sound deadening on the doors I will look into that.

Cheers

[napster]

M40COO and BasilD, I've just bought a couple of rolls of Brown Bread for £30 (which I didn't think was bad) and could do with a step by step guide (if you have the time or a point in the right direction if this has been covered elsewhere - I've obviously seen the links to the other site but could do with a bit more) of how best to fit to the doors of the VXR.

In particular - fitting round the woofer in the door. I assume you cut round the speaker but leave enough adhesion to actually stick round the rim of the speaker?

And turning to the front speakers. M40 COO, you made some mdf mounts - was that because of the size of the speakers you used or is it a prerequisite when fitting front components? I was thinking of not doing the mdf thing on the woofers unless of course it has to be done that way to make a better job of things.

Lastly - running speaker cables through the doors. The hole drilled through the plug/socket - is that the ONLY way through?

Thanks

[M40COO]

M40COO and BasilD, I've just bought a couple of rolls of Brown Bread for £30 (which I didn't think was bad) and could do with a step by step guide (if you have the time or a point in the right direction if this has been covered elsewhere - I've obviously seen the links to the other site but could do with a bit more) of how best to fit to the doors of the VXR.

In particular - fitting round the woofer in the door. I assume you cut round the speaker but leave enough adhesion to actually stick round the rim of the speaker?

Fitting:
Remove all dust and grease with a degreasing stlye product, such as acetone, paint thinner, denatured alcohol, Dupont Prepsol, etc.
Cut into pieces that will fit onto the offending panel. Use scissors or an utility knife
It is more pliable if heated with a hairdryer or heat gun. BEWARE! It gets hot! Heat likely won't be required if installing at or around room temperature.
Apply an initial layer to the offending panel.
For optimum results you can apply a second layer - by applying the second layer, you obtain up to three times the deadening effect of that of just one layer.

Putting it on the speaker mount was just strips (roughly cut) and put between surfaces, just to help stop any kind of vibration.

If you're still unsure, have a search for sound deadened pics to see what others have done.

And turning to the front speakers. M40 COO, you made some mdf mounts - was that because of the size of the speakers you used or is it a prerequisite when fitting front components? I was thinking of not doing the mdf thing on the woofers unless of course it has to be done that way to make a better job of things.

The door has 3 holes for mounting the original speaker, your new woofer mounting holes will most likely not line up with the existing holes.
If they did, then chances are your new speaker is deeper than the original, and could clash with the window when it's down.
Thats why I made adapter rings...I'm sure you can buy them, ..I'm just scottish and tight, so made them !

Lastly - running speaker cables through the doors. The hole drilled through the plug/socket - is that the ONLY way through?
Thanks

It seemed the only 'factory look', 'invisible' route to me....you could just drill and grommet a new route, but you'd need to protect the cable with conduit or similar.
Have alook and see what you think...

Hope that helps !

[napster]

M40 COO this certainly does help (nothing like advice from someone whose already done the job! ).

The adaptor rings suggestion sounds like the kinda thing I’m after and to be honest I would prefer them over making mdf mounts :? . I’m currently on the lookout to source a pair. I will check what’s available on the web unless you know of somewhere that sells them?

Thanks again for your time.

[cruizer]

M40COO,

I finally started this project this week with my week off work and I have to say your pictures make it look alot easier than I found it.

I took your advice and put some sound deadening in the hole, I have to say I think this helped when I came to release the fibreglass.

However obviously the mold fits but I wouldn't call it an exact match I found myself fighting with the foil a little, maybe I used too bigger pieces. I also found that it was very difficult to get the sides to stay up and flat.

Despite all this I think the biggest failure is the fact I used 1.5 litres of resin and only managed 2 layers of fibreglass on the base and 1 on the side. Obviosly I am going to build this up but was woundering if you had any good idea of how to apply the resin, I have used a brush in the past but found this tends to pull the fibreglass apart, I tried a credit card which worked a little better but maybe that is why I used so much resin.

Thanks in advance for any insite you may give.

[M40COO]

Some people use a roller - this helps to stop sir getting trapped between layers.

[cruizer]

I had a feeling you where going to say that. I will try it out tmoro maybe if i have time.

I have a quick maths question for you. Obviously to work out the area of the box you did r x r x pi x depth. But how do you work out how much of the side you needed to cut off?

Thanks

[cruizer]

Not to worry I worked it out. Good old traganomatry, is there anything it cant do?